Textile Conservation Workshop » Chasuble Inv. No. KKK tk/238

Chasuble Inv. No. KKK tk/238 before conservation.
The artefact under conservation is chasuble Inv. No. KKK tk/238, assembled from two re-used velvet brocade fabrics, featuring a decorative metallic broché weft. The fabric from the sides of the chasuble dates back to the second half of the 15th century, while the columns and shoulders to the second half of the 16th century. Dimensions: back of the chasuble: 116.5 cm (length), 66 cm (width). Front: 104 cm (length), 61 cm (width).

The fabric that was used for decorating the sides of the chasuble is blue, cut silk velvet with pile warp weave. On the blue background there are single pomegranate motifs laid out in an open grid system. Due to the unique character of the pattern, and the lack of reference material, it was difficult to find out when the fabric was made1. The form of the pattern composition seems transitory between the layouts typical of the first half of the 15th century and designs typical of the end of that century.

Reconstruction of the pattern repeat.
Left. Fabric from the sides of the chasuble,
Right. Fabric from the pillar of the chasuble
The pillar and the inside part of the arms of the chasuble is made from navy blue/purple velvet brocade. The composition consists of a double grid pattern which, on the one hand, is similar to the Venetian-style design of the second half of and the late 15th century, while, on the other hand, may serve as an example of the design marked with Spanish influences, popular in the second half of the 16th century.

The most extensive damage in the form of worn warp pile is seen in the shoulder parts of the front and back of the chasuble. The joining warp which supports a metallic thread of diagonal broché weft was also worn and cracked. An effect of this condition were the loosely hanging tangled metal-covered threads. In some places, damaged basic weave structure could also be seen, as well as missing parts and traces of earlier repair.

The main aim of the work was preventive conservation, securing the fabric against further damage. Another guiding idea was to make the object fit for display. Hence the conservation method selected to implement these ideas focused on both technology and conservation, as well as aesthetic considerations, to show the viewer the artistic and aesthetic aspects of this type of fabric at its best.

The stage of proper conservation work was preceded by the development of a conservation dossier, including photographic documentation and drawings. A damage map was made, showing the condition of the fabrics both at the front and the back of the chasuble. During preliminary disassembly work drawings were made, on the basis of which the patterns on the columns and sides of the chasuble were reconstructed, as well as a schematic drawing of the fabric weave. At that stage of the work samples were also taken for microbiological, physical and chemical tests. The test results were presented in the documentation.

Following disassembly, traces of earlier mending which had affected the metal weft were removed. Following the testing of the stability of colourants, the chasuble was cleaned in demineralised water with a non-ionic washing agent.

A. details of fabric from the sides of chasuble before conservation B. details during conservation C. details during conservation D. details after conservation

The proposed conservation work techniques were selected following the principle of reversibility of the repair work. The decorative fabric was doubled point-wise on the support fabric. The conservation technique used for those parts in which the fabric binding structures were damaged was the laid yarn technique. Metallic broché warps within the pattern were fixed point-wise, re-creating the original method of linking decorative thread with the fabric’s twill weave structure.

Chasuble Inv. No. . KKK tk/238 after conservation
The final stage of the work consisted of conserving the chasuble’s lining and braid. Then the pieces of the chasuble were re-assembled to restore its original form, and the photographic, descriptive and drawing documentation was completed.

* Following the suggestions of the Workshop Director, expert artist-conservator Barbara Kalfas, the assumptions and bases of the hypothesis of dating the fabric from the sides of the blue chasuble Inv. No. KKK tk/238, to the 15th century, were analysed. Based on the analysis of comparative texts on the history of Italian historic textile, as well as the consultation with specialists from the Museo del Tessuto in Prato, the Museo Poldi Pezzoli in Milan, the Palazzo Mocenigo in Venice, Professor Doretta Davanzo Poli and the Victoria and Albert Museum, strengthened the initial assumptions regarding dating the origins of the fabric to the second half of the 15th century.